If ever I am locked in a closet, magic wish dust cascading down onto my head and shoulders as I anxiously rock myself back and forth, I will pray—nay! Demand to be made 60 years old. By 60, you know who you’re going to be. You have your priorities straight, your big career leaps behind you, your fucks in a row (or just as often, not given). Why be 30 and flirty and thriving when you can be 60 and accomplished and stable and confident and flirty and thriving?! Add requisite early dinners to that list, and life would be a dream. The one thing is, skin changes over time, and though wrinkles are just par for the course of a life well-lived when I wake up in my sexagenarian body I don’t think I’ll want to keep doing my makeup the same way I do now, in my 20s.
Perhaps you’ve climbed in age the old fashioned way and still don’t have a clue. That’s fine! It’s why celebrities enlist makeup artists to help them navigate the transition. “Something Sharon Stone said that I’ve always remembered is that I helped her understand her changing face,” says makeup artist Billy B. Below, find best practice tips from Billy and five other makeup artists who’ve touched the beautiful, and yes, wrinkled faces of a few of my idols.
Lube Up
“It is simply paramount, when doing makeup on mature skin, to begin with the right skincare. The right skincare creates the perfect moisturized, buoyant, and smooth surface, and it also ensures extended wear of whatever makeup you apply after. While working with Jane Fonda, I always sought products that would help plump, iron-out, and smooth fine lines while firming-up loose skin, particularly under the eyes and on the eyelid. To meet that need I created Ageless Skin Serum, which is now always my first step. I use it all around the eyes and then work it into the face and neck, gently pressing and working in upward motions.”
—Shawnelle Prestidge, clients include Jane Fonda
No, Seriously
“We’re all born with hyaluronic acid in our skin—it’s what keeps our skin supple. But as we get older, our skin experiences a significant loss of hyaluronic acid and becomes dry. By using three molecular weights of hyaluronic acid, the skin is completely hydrated and the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles is diminished. I love using Intraceuticals’ three-step Rejuvenate system, which consists of a low molecular weight serum, medium molecular weight gel, and high molecular weight cream. The combination of all three is like giving your skin a tall glass of water. They combat surface dehydration, lock in moisture, and create a more luminous canvas for effortless makeup application.”
—Gina Brooke, clients include Cher and Madonna
It’s All About The Moisture
“Aging causes the skin to become thinner, so it’s not as plump and full of collagen, oil, and water as it once was. Makeup artists boost the skin by using oil and water-rich products to give a luminous and dewy look prior to a makeup application. On clean skin, I spritz a mist like Glossier’s Soothing Face Mist, apply a generous amount of serum, and use a firm tapping technique to infuse them into the skin. My favorite serum to use is my Hi Serum, which contains 500mg of CBD oil, peptides, and antioxidants. If any spots seem flaky or dry, I press a multi-use balm like my Cherry-O on those areas. Carefully positioned cream highlighters and blush, like Cloud Paint, can also help give the skin a subtle sheen. And I always re-mist the skin right before applying mascara!”
—Shelley Costantini, clients include Christiane Amanpour and Betty White
Choose Oil-Based Foundations
“As we age, skin loses that youthful, dewy glow. Choosing a moisturizing foundation instead of a water-based one will be better for mature skin, because water-based foundations tend to be drying, and dryness brings out fine lines. I tend to stick to premium, luxury lines when working on mature skin, and Cle de Peau Refining Fluid Foundation is the best. If you’re on a budget, I also love Milk products. That being said, if I could add one more tip for mature skin it would be to hydrate! Caring for your skin is the most important.”
—Nicole Daisy Toye, clients include Martha Stewart
Use Shimmer To Master Misdirection
“I love to make use of a high sheen powder high up on the cheekbone where there might be crow’s feet. It needs to be really finely-milled, without glitter or particles, and I try to use shades that are closer to a skin tone—so, not a silver. And I actually get the best success with blush that has a shine to it. I know shimmer blushes aren’t trending, but for me makeup isn’t really about a trend, it’s about what works. I apply the blush from the apples of the cheeks to basically the end of the eyebrow, really high up on the cheekbone. The sheen reflects light and gives the illusion of dewy skin, while also camouflaging any texture. It’s one of those tricks that are built for the red carpet but translates really well to the street for us normal people. Christian Dior makes some beautiful blushes that work for this, or I like MAC’s Mineralize powder blushes.”
—Billy B Brasfield, clients include Tina Turner and Sharon Stone
And Finally, Keep A Light Hand
“For mature skin I always start with moisturizer and liquid foundation, and then I very lightly dust translucent powder on top of everything to set it. I want to emphasize lightly—the more powder you apply on mature skin, the more wrinkles tend to show. A great beauty tip for all women is to never use a powder with color. Colored powders tend to get darker during the day as you perspire, which is why I only use translucent powder and get my color coverage from foundation. My favorite translucent powder is from Laura Mercier.”
—Damone Roberts, clients include Oprah and Cicely Tyson
—Ali Oshinsky
Photo via ITG
